Muri Ghonto Fish Head Rice

Ingredients

• 1 large fish head (rohu or catla — split in half; ask the fish seller to do this)
• 1/2 cup gobindo bhog rice or any short-grain rice (substitute with any regular rice)
• 2 tbsp mustard oil
• 2 tbsp ghee
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 2 bay leaf
• 4 green cardamom — lightly crushed
• 4 cloves
• 1 inch cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp turmeric for marinating
• 1 tsp turmeric for cooking
• 1 tsp red chilli powder
• 1 tsp cumin powder
• 1 tsp coriander powder
• 1 tsp sugar
• salt to taste
• 2.5 cups warm water
• coriander leaves for garnish

Method

1. Marinate the fish head: Wash the fish head halves thoroughly under cold water. Pat dry. Rub 1/4 tsp turmeric and 1/2 tsp salt all over both pieces. Let rest for 10 minutes. This removes any raw fish smell and adds a protective layer before frying.
2. Fry the fish head: Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a heavy pot on medium-high heat until smoking, then reduce to medium. Carefully place the fish head halves in the hot oil. The fish head will splatter — stand back. Fry for 3 minutes on each side until golden and slightly crispy on the outside. Remove and keep aside.
3. Wash the rice: Wash 1/2 cup rice in 2 to 3 changes of water. Drain and keep aside.
4. Heat ghee and temper whole spices: In the same pot add 2 tbsp ghee on medium heat. Add cumin seeds, bay leaves, crushed cardamom, cloves and cinnamon. Let them sizzle for 20 seconds until very fragrant. The combination of ghee and whole spices is the aromatic foundation of muri ghonto.
5. Add rice and fry briefly: Add the drained rice to the spiced ghee. Stir gently for 2 minutes — the rice grains will absorb the ghee and become coated with the spice flavour. This brief frying of the raw rice develops a nutty undertone.
6. Add spice powders: Add turmeric, red chilli powder, cumin powder, coriander powder and sugar. Stir to coat the rice with all the spices.
7. Add water and fish head: Pour in 2.5 cups warm water. Add salt. Stir gently. Place the fried fish head pieces back into the pot, pressing them into the water and rice. The fish head is large — break it into smaller sections with a spoon if needed.
8. Cook covered on medium-low: Bring to a boil then reduce to medium-low. Cover tightly. Cook for 15 minutes.
9. Open and break down the fish: Open the lid. By now the fish head should be very tender. Using a spoon, break the fish head apart into the rice — remove any large bones you find. The flesh, fat and gelatine from the fish head will dissolve into the rice, making it incredibly flavourful. Continue cooking uncovered for 5 minutes stirring gently until the rice absorbs all the remaining liquid and the preparation becomes thick.
10. Finish with ghee and serve: Add a small spoonful of extra ghee. Stir gently. Scatter coriander leaves. Serve hot in bowls — muri ghonto should be thick, almost like a risotto, each grain coated in the fish-ghee flavour.
11. Note: Muri Ghonto is a dish that exemplifies the Bengali approach of using every part of the fish respectfully. The fish head is not a lesser cut in Bengali cooking — it is the most prized. The Bengalis say the head has the most flavour of the whole fish. The gelatine and fat from the fish head dissolve into the rice as it cooks, creating an umami depth that plain rice can never achieve. Served at family celebrations and at Durga Puja community meals.