Nattu Kozhi Kuzhambu

Ingredients

• 1 kg country chicken (nattu kozhi), cut into pieces
• 3 onions, finely chopped
• 3 tomatoes, chopped
• 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
• 1 sprig curry leaves
• 3 tbsp sesame oil
• 1 tsp mustard seeds
• Salt to taste
• For the masala paste: 1/2 cup grated coconut, 6 dried red chillies, 1 tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp fennel seeds, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 6 peppercorns, 1 tsp poppy seeds, 1 cinnamon stick, 3 cloves, 2 cardamom pods — all dry roasted and ground

Method

1. About Nattu Kozhi Kuzhambu: Nattu kozhi means country chicken or free-range chicken in Tamil. This chicken is tougher and more flavourful than broiler chicken and requires slow cooking for an hour or more. The result is an intensely flavoured, thick gravy that is one of Tamil Nadu's most prized dishes.
2. Clean the chicken: Wash the country chicken pieces thoroughly. Country chicken has a stronger flavour than regular chicken. Pat dry. Make deep cuts in the larger pieces so the masala penetrates during cooking.
3. Dry roast the masala ingredients: In a dry pan roast separately: 6 dried red chillies, 1 tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp fennel seeds, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 6 black peppercorns, 1 tsp poppy seeds, 1 small cinnamon stick, 3 cloves, 2 cardamom pods. Roast each until fragrant — 1-2 minutes each. Do not burn. Cool completely.
4. Grind the masala paste: Blend the dry roasted spices with 1/2 cup fresh grated coconut and a little water to a smooth, thick paste. This freshly ground masala is the heart of the dish and is what makes it so different from everyday chicken curries.
5. Fry the onions: Heat 3 tbsp sesame oil in a heavy-bottomed pot on medium heat. Add mustard seeds and let them pop. Add curry leaves. Add the finely chopped onions and cook for 15-18 minutes, stirring regularly, until deeply golden brown. Do not rush this step.
6. Add ginger-garlic and tomatoes: Add the ginger-garlic paste and cook 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes until the oil separates and the mixture is a dark, thick paste.
7. Add the masala paste: Add the ground coconut-spice paste to the pot. Stir well and cook on medium heat for 6-8 minutes, stirring continuously. The paste will darken and become very fragrant. The raw coconut smell will disappear — this is important.
8. Add chicken: Add the chicken pieces and mix well, coating every piece with the masala. Add 1 cup water and salt. Bring to a boil.
9. Slow cook: This is where nattu kozhi is different from broiler chicken. Reduce heat to low-medium, cover and cook for 45-55 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes. The chicken must become completely tender — test by pressing a piece. Add water in small amounts if the gravy gets too dry.
10. Final consistency: The gravy should be thick, dark and coat the chicken well. Taste and adjust salt. The oil should be visible floating slightly on top — this means the masala is fully cooked. Serve with parotta, idiyappam or steamed rice.