Hyderabadi Mutton Biryani Dum Style

Method

1. 1

   Fry the onions first (30 minutes): Slice 3 onions very thin. Heat 4 tbsp oil in a wide pan on medium-high. Add the onion slices. Fry stirring every 3 to 4 minutes for 25 to 30 minutes until very deep golden-brown. Remove half for the marinade and half for layering. Drain on paper towels — they will crisp up as they cool.

2. 2

   Marinate the mutton: In a large bowl combine mutton pieces with yogurt, half the fried onion, ginger paste, garlic paste, red chilli powder, coriander powder, turmeric, garam masala, lemon juice and salt. Mix thoroughly so every piece is coated. Cover and refrigerate for minimum 2 hours — overnight is much better. Longer marination produces more tender, flavoured meat.

3. 3

   Cook the marinated mutton: Heat 3 tbsp ghee in a heavy pot. Add all the marinated mutton along with the marinade. Cook on medium-high heat, stirring and turning pieces, for 10 minutes until the yogurt moisture evaporates and the masala sticks to the meat. Reduce to medium-low. Cover and cook for 30 to 35 minutes until the mutton is 80 percent cooked — tender but not falling apart. Set aside.

4. 4

   Parboil the basmati rice: Bring 8 cups water to a full rolling boil. Add salt and all the whole spices. Drain the soaked rice and add to the boiling water. Cook uncovered on high heat for 5 to 6 minutes until the rice is 70 percent done — firm in the centre, soft outside. Drain immediately through a strainer. Spread on a tray to stop cooking.

5. 5

   Prepare saffron milk: Soak saffron strands in 3 tbsp warm milk for 10 minutes.

6. 6

   Layer the biryani in the pot: In the pot with the cooked mutton (it should have thick masala at the bottom), spread the mutton evenly. Spread half the parboiled rice as the first rice layer. Scatter half the mint leaves, half the coriander leaves and half the remaining fried onion on the rice. Drizzle half the saffron milk. Sprinkle 1/2 tsp rose water and 1/2 tsp kewra water. Add the remaining rice as the second layer. Scatter remaining mint, coriander and fried onion. Drizzle remaining saffron milk and remaining rose and kewra water. Pour 2 tbsp ghee over the top.

7. 7

   Seal the pot tightly: Roll the stiff wheat dough into a long rope. Press it firmly around the rim of the pot lid to create an airtight seal. This dough seal is the authentic Hyderabadi method — it traps all steam inside.

8. 8

   Cook the dum on high then low heat: Place the sealed pot on high heat for 5 minutes — you may see steam escaping from the edges. Reduce to the absolute lowest heat. Place a thick flat griddle or tawa underneath the pot to distribute the heat evenly and prevent burning. Cook on lowest heat for 25 to 30 minutes.

9. 9

   Rest before opening: Remove from heat. Do not open for 10 more minutes — the steam continues cooking the biryani after the heat is off.

10. 10

    Open and serve: Break the dough seal. Open the lid carefully — fragrant steam will escape. Use a wide flat spoon to gently mix the layers from the bottom upward — twice only. Do not stir aggressively. Serve immediately with raita, mirchi ka salan and onion salad.

11. 11

    Note: The Hyderabadi Dum Biryani was developed in the kitchens of the Nizams and became the defining dish of Hyderabad. The dum pukht technique of sealing the pot with dough and cooking on low heat is what makes Hyderabadi biryani different from all other biryanis. The meat and rice cook together in their own steam — neither is cooked fully before the dum stage.