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Gulab Jamun
Soft milk-solid dumplings soaked in fragrant rose sugar syrup — India's most beloved sweet.
Full-fat milk reduced to one-third its volume, sweetened and flavoured with cardamom, saffron and pistachios, then frozen in small clay cups. The original Indian frozen dessert — denser and creamier than ice cream because no air is churned in.
Reduce the milk by half: Pour 1.5 litres full-fat milk into a wide heavy-bottomed pot. Bring to a boil on medium-high heat, stirring frequently. Once boiling, reduce to medium. Cook stirring every 3 minutes for 30 to 35 minutes until the milk reduces to about 750 ml. Scrape the cream from the sides back into the milk each time you stir.
Add cornflour paste (optional): Mix 1 tbsp cornflour with 2 tbsp cold milk until smooth. Add this to the hot reduced milk while stirring. Cook for 3 more minutes. The cornflour gives kulfi a slightly firmer set, preventing it from being icy when frozen.
Add sugar: Add 1/2 cup sugar to the reduced milk. Stir continuously for 3 to 4 minutes until the sugar dissolves completely.
Add saffron: Pour the saffron milk (with the strands) into the pot. Stir well. The reduced milk will turn a warm golden colour.
Add cardamom: Add cardamom powder. Stir.
Add most of the nuts: Add most of the chopped pistachio and almonds to the hot milk. Reserve a small amount for garnish. Stir.
Check the consistency: The kulfi mixture should be noticeably thick — when you pour it from a ladle it should fall in a thick stream, not watery. If still thin, cook for 5 more minutes. Kulfi that is not sufficiently reduced will have ice crystals when frozen.
Cool the mixture: Remove from heat. Pour into a wide bowl. Let cool to room temperature — about 30 minutes. Do not refrigerate yet.
Pour into moulds: Pour the cooled mixture into small clay matkas (cups), kulfi moulds, or small paper cups or ice cream moulds. Fill them three-quarters full — the kulfi expands very slightly as it freezes. Top each with the reserved chopped pistachio.
Freeze for 8 hours or overnight: Cover the moulds with foil or lids. Freeze for minimum 8 hours. To serve, dip the mould briefly in warm water for 10 seconds and slide the kulfi out onto a plate.
Note: Kulfi has been made in the subcontinent since the Mughal period — long before refrigeration, kulfi was frozen using saltpetre mixed with ice collected from the Himalayan mountains. In Agra, Lucknow and Delhi there are kulfi stalls that have been operating for over 100 years using the same method. Unlike commercial ice cream, kulfi is not churned — the absence of air makes it denser, creamier and slower to melt. Matka kulfi (set in clay cups) is considered more authentic than the cone-shaped kulfi.
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