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Seasonal vegetables cooked in a mustard paste gravy — the Odia way of cooking with mustard that produces a sharp, pungent curry that is entirely different from the Bengali mustard preparations. One of the defining flavour profiles of Odia cuisine.
Make the besara mustard paste: Drain soaked yellow mustard seeds. Grind in a small mixer with dried red chilli, garlic and a pinch of salt. Add 3 tbsp water. Grind for 3 minutes to a smooth, sharp paste. The besara paste will taste pungent and fiery — this pungency mellows when cooked but remains the defining element of the dish.
Prepare the vegetables: Peel and cut the chosen vegetable into 2 cm pieces. Raw papaya and raw banana are the most traditional besara vegetables. Keep in water to prevent browning.
Heat mustard oil: Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a heavy pan until smoking. Reduce to medium. The smoking step is essential in Odia cooking.
Add panch phoron and dried chilli: Add panch phoron — let the five seeds crackle. Add dried red chilli. Stir 15 seconds.
Add ginger and green chilli: Add ginger paste. Stir 30 seconds. Add slit green chilli.
Add the besara paste: Add the ground mustard paste. Stir continuously for 2 minutes on medium heat. The paste will cook into the oil and become more fragrant and less raw-smelling.
Add vegetables and turmeric: Add the cut vegetables. Add turmeric. Stir to coat every piece with the mustard paste.
Add water and salt: Add 1 cup water and salt. Stir. Bring to a simmer.
Cover and cook: Cover and cook on medium-low heat for 12 to 15 minutes until the vegetables are completely tender. Open the lid twice and stir gently.
Finish and serve: The besara should be a moderately thick gravy with a sharp mustard character. Taste and adjust salt. Serve with steamed rice.
Note: Besara is the Odia term for the category of preparations made with a mustard paste base. Unlike the Bengali use of mustard paste which is usually subtle, the Odia besara uses a more assertive quantity of mustard and garlic giving it a sharper, more pungent character. This technique is used not just for vegetables but also for fish (machha besara) and eggs. The mustard paste cooking tradition in Odisha reflects the state's proximity to West Bengal while maintaining its own distinct culinary identity.
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