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Pav Bhaji
Mumbai's beloved mashed vegetable curry served on butter-toasted soft buns — street food gold.
A sugar syrup pulled and spun into extremely fine, gossamer threads that look like white hair (budiya ke baal = old woman's hair in Hindi) — the hand-made cotton candy of the UP fair circuit, made by skilled artisans at every mela (fair) from Ramnavami to Id across the state. A documentation of this dying craft.
Make the sugar syrup: Combine sugar, water, cream of tartar and glucose in a heavy saucepan. Heat on medium-high without stirring.
Cook to hard crack stage: Cook the syrup until it reaches 149 to 154°C (hard crack stage). At this temperature a drop in cold water forms a brittle thread. The syrup will be pale gold.
Add colouring: If using food colouring, add a few drops and stir quickly.
Cool slightly: Remove from heat. Allow to cool for 2 to 3 minutes until the syrup thickens slightly — it should pour in slow, thick ribbons.
Set up two rod or skewers: Place two wooden rods, skewers or lightly oiled chopsticks approximately 50 cm apart, extending horizontally from a surface edge.
Pull the threads: Dip a fork into the hot syrup. Pull the fork rapidly in a back-and-forth motion over the two rods. Very fine threads of sugar will form between the rods — they harden almost instantly in the air.
Collect the threads: Gather the formed threads from the rods.
Continue pulling: Repeat the pulling motion with more syrup until you have the desired amount of thread.
Shape into a ball or nest: Gather the threads and shape into a soft nest or ball.
Serve immediately: The sugar threads harden and stick together within minutes — eat promptly.
Note: Budiya Ke Baal (old woman's hair) is the traditional hand-pulled spun sugar confection of the UP fair circuit — distinct from the machine-made cotton candy now prevalent at modern fairs. The artisans who make it by hand use a specific dipping-and-pulling motion that requires practice to master. The preparation is seen at the Prayagraj Kumbh Mela, the Lucknow Mahotsav, the Ramnavami fair at Ayodhya and virtually every significant mela across UP. The craft is now considered a disappearing tradition as machine cotton candy has replaced it at most venues.
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